Ao vencedor, as batatas!

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Ao vencedor, as batatas!

16 de julho de 2019 0  Por CLÁUDIO VIEIRA     site https://brasilfestasefolias.com.br/

Índios Krahôs, do Alto Tocantins, fazem da Festa da Batata uma lição de sabedoria para o equilíbrio no poder

Com informações e fotos de Andrea Goldschmidt

Divididos em dois grupos – o da estação Katam’Jê e o da estação Wakme’Jê – os índios Krahôs, cuja aldeia está situada a uma hora de distância do município de Itacajá, no Nordeste do Estado de Tocantins, desenvolveram um sistema de governo que, um dia, quem sabe, poderá inspirar o homem branco.

Na concepção Krahô o ano se divide em duas estações, a seca (Wakme’Jê), determinada pelo sol nascente, calor, vegetação escassa e presença de animais diurnos; e a chuvosa (Katam’Jê), do sol poente, frio, vegetação verde e abundante, animais noturnos.

E é de seis em seis meses, quando as estações se alternam, que a tribo se reúne para um ritual de extrema importância: o da troca do poder.

Como numa partida de queimado, os índios tentam acertar os adversários. Mas, em vez de bola, usam batatas…

Na estação da seca, quem manda é o cacique da chuva; e na estação chuvosa, quem assume o comando é o cacique da seca. É assim que os Krahô tentam buscar um equilíbrio constante em suas ações para que todos vivam adequados à pobreza da região e à escassez de recursos naturais, cada vez maior. Os dois grupos são identificados com pinturas corporais. Um usa traços verticais vermelhos e pretos, o outro, horizontais, das mesmas cores.

Para celebrar a troca do poder, os Krahôs organizam duas cerimônias anuais, celebradas em julho – quando assume o grupo da seca – e janeiro – quando chega a vez do grupo da chuva. É nestas duas ocasiões especiais que acontece a Festa da Batata.

Todo tubérculo é batata

Batata, para os krahôs, são vários tipos de tubérculos: a batata-inglesa, a batata-doce, a mandioca, o inhame e outros, consumidos pela aldeia durante o ano inteiro.

No dia da cerimônia, homens e mulheres se revezam nos preparativos do paparuto, um bolo feito com massa de mandioca, recheado com pedaços de carne ou peixe, e assado num envólucro artesanal, feito com folhas de bananeira. Todos comem o paparuto, saudando as forças da natureza e a integração do povo. O paparuto é o elo comum a todas as cerimônias da etnia, inclusive os casamentos.

Os Krahôs não têm muitos motivos para rir. Afinal, seus vizinhos, grandes latifundiários, plantadores de soja e milho, maltratam a água que vai para a aldeia. É nela que despejam agrotóxicos e lavam o gado, obrigando os índios a desviarem cursos naturais aqui e ali, para que tenham água de qualidade para as crianças e os velhos beberem.

Os Krahô embalam o paparuto (bolo de mandioca com carne ou peixe) com folhas de bananeira para assar no braseiro

O grande momento da Festa da Batata – e, talvez por isso seja chamada de “festa” – é quando as equipes da chuva e da seca se encontram no centro da aldeia para disputar um jogo parecido com “queimado”. Só há uma diferença: em vez de uma bola, os krahôs usam batatas. O índio atingido por uma batatada é “queimado”, tendo que abandonar o jogo e sair correndo para tratar do calombo que nasce no local do hematoma. Vence o grupo que eliminar todos os adversários.

“De longe a gente escuta o impacto da batata. Eles jogam muito forte” – conta a fotógrafa Andrea Goldschmidt, que passou 15 dias na aldeia Krahô e participou da Festa da Batata em julho de 2016. Ganhou as listras verticais do grupo Katam’Jê e foi rebatizada com o nome de Irãhkwyj – nome que não consegue memorizar, nem falar, mas que significa “flor que nasce em árvore”. Se fosse em português seria Acácia, mais simples.

A administradora que virou fotógrafa

Andréa virou Irãhkwyj,

“flor que nasce na árvore”-

Foto Márcia Costa

Andrea é paulistana. Era uma administradora de empresas que resolveu fazer um curso de fotografias para aliviar a carga de estresse. Precisava de um tema para fazer o trabalho de encerramento do curso e, numa viagem a Cuzco, conheceu um fotógrafo peruano, cujo grande sonho era documentar todas as festas populares de seu país. Teve um estalo: por que não documentar as festas populares do Brasil?

Já fotografou 36, de diferentes religiões e manifestações culturais de todos os cantos do País. Mas, um dia, refletiu: faltava documentar uma festa indígena. Foi quando conheceu o fotógrafo Renato Soares, um especialista em índios brasileiros. Num universo com pouco mais de 300 etnias, ele já fotografou 84!

Convidada por Renato, Andrea colocou a mochila nas costas e partiu para o Tocantins. Além dos 15 dias de convívio com os krahôs, Irãhkwyj ficou encantada com o céu da região: “Parecia que nós estávamos num planetário!” – lembra com saudades. As fotos que ilustram esta matéria foram feitas por ela, que nos permitiu usá-las.

Para guardar os registros de suas andanças, Andrea criou um blog e um site, cujo link pode ser acessado ao final do texto. Atualmente, interrompeu sua ida às festas para concluir a edição de um web-documentário sobre as festas de São José do Paraitinga, cidade do interior de São Paulo, que pode ser considerada a campeã brasileira de eventos folclóricos.

Machado não sabia de nada

Machado não conhecia os Krahôs

Quando escreveu o romance Quincas Borba, em 1891, Machado de Assis destaca a filosofia do personagem principal (o próprio Quincas), que tentava convencer o discípulo Rubião que tipo de vantagem uma tribo poderia levar sobre a outra numa disputa por batatas, o alimento para a sobrevivência de ambas. Traduzindo ao pé da letra, o prêmio ficaria com a mais poderosa, que talvez não festejasse a vitória, mas ficaria com as batatas.

Ensinava Quincas Borba:

“Supõe tu um campo de batatas e duas tribos famintas. As batatas apenas chegam para alimentar uma das tribos que assim adquire forças para transpor a montanha e ir à outra vertente, onde há batatas em abundância; mas, se as duas tribos dividirem em paz as batatas do campo, não chegam a nutrir-se suficientemente e morrem de inanição. A paz nesse caso, é a destruição; a guerra é a conservação. Uma das tribos extermina a outra e recolhe os despojos. Daí a alegria da vitória, os hinos, aclamações, recompensas públicas e todos os demais feitos das ações bélicas. Se a guerra não fosse isso, tais demonstrações não chegariam a dar-se, pelo motivo real de que o homem só comemora e ama o que lhe é aprazível ou vantajoso, e pelo motivo racional de que nenhuma pessoa canoniza uma ação que virtualmente a destrói. Ao vencido, ódio ou compaixão; ao vencedor, as batatas” – e a expressão popular acabou nascendo aí.

Se Machado conhecesse a filosofia dos krahôs, que fazem da batata o seu instrumento de união e sabedoria, talvez buscasse um outro exemplo.

Os Krahôs não têm muitos motivos para sorrir

Festas Populares Brasileiras – https://www.festasbrasileiras.com.br/

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